Armageddon doesn’t come hotter than this. Hard on the heels of Anthony Bourdain (Kitchen Confidential – remember the bit when the fish chef gives the bride a quickie over the trash-bin?) comes Bill Buford, literary lion turned kitchen skivvy in one of Manhattan’s big-name restaurants, author of this compulsively readable addition to the literature of culinary bad boys. It gets to you, the heat. And if you can’t stand it – well, here’s one literary editor who’s man enough to take it.