Maya Jaggi
Yugonostalgia
In Pula, an Italianate harbour town in northern Croatia, I found James Joyce seated on a terrace beside a ruined Roman arch. The bronze is outside Uliks (‘Ulysses’), a little Art Nouveau cafe in what was once the Berlitz school. The 22-year-old spent five months teaching English there to Austro-Hungarian naval officers in 1904–5, living with Nora Barnacle – with whom he had just eloped – in a tiny flat across the street.
The young couple found their stay tedious. In letters home Joyce dismissed Pula, at the southern tip of the Istrian peninsula, as a ‘back-of-God-speed place – a naval Siberia … swarming with faded uniforms’. Istria, with its vines and olive trees, was a ‘long boring place wedged into the Adriatic, peopled by ignorant Slavs who wear red caps and colossal breeches’. Yet before hastening 70 miles north to Trieste, he wrote several chapters of Stephen Hero – some of which he adapted into A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man – in a cafe on Pula’s seafront. The novel’s serialisation began in 1914. One hundred years later, it strikes me that Stephen Dedalus’s vow not to serve home, fatherland or church but to fly past the
Sign Up to our newsletter
Receive free articles, highlights from the archive, news, details of prizes, and much more.@Lit_Review
Follow Literary Review on Twitter
Twitter Feed
Don't ask about the dress code, don't talk about your spouse too much, flirt with everyone
Andrew Martin on the rules, pleasures and pitfalls of living in Paris
Andrew Martin - Bobos versus Beaufs
Andrew Martin: Bobos versus Beaufs - Impossible City: Paris in the Twenty-First Century by Simon Kuper
literaryreview.co.uk
for the latest edition of @Lit_Review I worked on some excellent pieces – @MortenHoiJensen on Kafka
@ellafox_m on @mimpathy (Honor Levy)
@profrhodrilewis on Shakespeare novels
@edcumming on Kaliane Bradley
@zoeguttenplan on @NationalTheatre's Dickens show
wrote about MY FIRST BOOK (@GrantaBooks) for @Lit_Review, a book that I think makes difficult things look very easy: