Christopher Ross
Growth Industry
The Truth About Fat
By Anthony Warner
Oneworld 366pp £14.99
The proverbial phrase ‘do not bite the hand that feeds you’ springs to mind while investigating the background of Anthony Warner, the so-called Angry Chef. All chefs I have met or read about are very keen to provide clear information on their professional background, stating where they trained, where they have worked and where they are now. Warner frequently calls himself a chef of twenty years’ standing without mentioning a single restaurant he has worked at. An explanation for his coyness is that he is now a development chef, no longer cooking in restaurants, but instead employed by the food industry (aka Big Food), making use of his biochemistry degree to tweak food-like substances so that they can be lawfully marketed as food.
There is a double whopper-sized hole in the arguments presented in this otherwise fairly comprehensive round-up of the possible causes of the global epidemic of obesity that has swept the industrialised world in the last thirty to forty years. Big Food is hardly mentioned and the usual suspects of sugar,
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