So much has been written about Elizabeth David over the years that it is almost an impertinence even to dare to add one’s voice to the Rowley Leighs and Hugh Johnsons of this world, never mind to earlier generations of wine and food writers, going back to people like Cyril Ray. Ever since her lone voice broke through the fog of postwar Britain, David has been quite rightly hailed as the woman who single-handedly changed the face of British food.

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